The Mysterious Forest of Steles: The Taliu Cemetery

The Taliu Cemetery was designated as a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the Yunnan Provincial Level in 1998, and listed among the sixth batch of Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level on June 10, 2006. It is a unique scenic spot for folk custom tourism development in Yongsheng County.

Located in Liude Township, Yongsheng County, the cemetery covers an area of 304,000 square metres. Clinging to the mountain slope, the ancient tombs stand row upon row. More than 6,340 ancient tombs have been counted and registered within the burial ground, among which over 2,500 remain well-preserved, and upwards of 45% feature inscribed epitaphs.

Burial construction began in the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty and continued until the Republican era, spanning roughly 400 years. Built facing southwest along the mountainside, most tombs belong to four clans: Chen, Hai, Lan and Wang. The majority are stone-clad mounds with largely identical structures.

Each stele consists of a frame, a stele head, a base, side pillars and an offering platform. Most stele slabs are rectangular, measuring 0.6 to 0.8 metres tall on their own, with an overall height of 1.5 to 2 metres and a width ranging from 1.5 to 4 metres. There are two main types: single-line steles and recessed steles.

The base is structured with a kylin stone at the front centre, flanked by deer-and-horse stones, floral stones and flat paving stones, with the middle section reserved as the offering platform. On both sides of the platform stand stele pillars and splayed biaxial stones. Set within are inscribed epitaph slabs (also known as spirit way tablets) and inner pillars, with the main stele panel right in the centre. Above it sit a semicircular crown stone and a second rectangular flat cap stone.

All inscriptions are written in neat, vigorous regular Chinese script with exquisite carving craftsmanship, and the crown stele head is arched. Frames fall into two categories: single-layer frames and double-layer inner-and-outer frames.

Ornamental reliefs covering the tomb facades include exotic flowers and rare herbs, auspicious clouds and treasure vases, as well as rare birds and mythical beasts, rendered with superb craftsmanship. The borders of the semicircular crowns feature a rich variety of motifs: phoenix facing the rising sun, two dragons playing with a pearl, a pair of cranes bowing to each other, twin dragons contending for treasure, lotus-wreathed dragons, bat dragons and gecko dragons.

The emblem carved on the central orb is particularly striking, depicting the sun, moon and jewels. Some tombs bear the yin-yang fish symbol representing the Taiji diagram of Taoism. Others carry seal characters of blessing and longevity to commemorate a life well lived, alongside Confucian sacrificial patterns praying for good fortune and fulfilment for descendants.

Carved on the splayed biaxial stones are scenes such as boy attendants paying birthday homage, civil and military officials, wintersweet blossoms in bud, chrysanthemums in full bloom, magpies perched on branches, treasure vases bringing good fortune, and ruyi sceptres and writing brushes. Hanging upside down on both sides are fierce male lions to project solemnity. The top is decorated with brush-tip and sword patterns guarded by mythical beasts (called dog heads by the Taliu people). Some tops are built like tiled roofs, hollowed out into latticed windows, or engraved with Bagua diagrams with perforated openings.

The kylins carved on the base stones have endlessly varied postures; no two kylins are identical in shape. Apart from a small number of carvings featuring jade belts, lotus blooms and twin lions rolling a fiery ball, kylins dominate the design, forming a profound kylin cultural complex.

The deer-and-horse stones flanking the base and floral carvings between kylin stones often feature the 12 Chinese zodiac animals. Curiously enough, the pig is entirely missing from the zodiac sequence. Every relief carving is masterfully executed, vivid and lifelike.

Scholars and experts who have visited and investigated Mount Taliu all comment that the culture of the Taliu Forest of Steles can be summed up as: "A masterpiece blending Yi and Han cultures, a historical enigma hidden from sight. Wrapped in Han cultural form, it holds the inner spirit of the Taliu people."