White Poplars Along the Ancient River Course

Guanxian County is the nation’s largest breeding base for Chinese white poplars. Five large forest farms stretch across the land, home to 120,000 mu of towering poplar woods. Tall poplar trees line canals and roadways, stretching for a total length of 10,000 kilometres. It is no exaggeration to say that these poplar forests bring mild breezes, gentle drizzles, fresher oxygen and bluer skies to Guanxian. The poplar woods stand as the pride of the county and a magnificent natural landscape.

The hundred-li stretch of the ancient Yellow River course is covered by a vast, lush ocean of poplars. Here the soil is dry and sandy, the woods dense with soft winds, and the air fresh enough to refresh the soul. The forest sea boasts wonderful scenery all year round, equally charming in every season.

The most enchanting experience in the woodland is listening to the rustling waves of the trees. Find a patch of soft grass amid the thick shade and sit down on the ground to enjoy nature’s own symphony. When a light wind picks up, the poplar grove begins to whisper. Hundreds of millions of leaves clap gently, producing a continuous soft rustle that calms the mind and soothes the spirit. When a strong gale blows, deep roars sweep across the dense woods. The sound rises and falls, surges and fades. It rumbles between heaven and earth without being deafening, and howls all around without turning shrill. Close your eyes, and you will feel as if you are out on the open sea, amid raging winds and towering waves, with the whole earth heaving gently. If you climb up for a panoramic view, endless green waves roll across the woodland. Buildings among the trees emerge and vanish like reefs in the ocean, creating a breathtaking view.

When you wander through the forest sea, take a break to admire the poplar trees standing straight and tall. You will instantly be transported into the artistic conception of the famous prose Ode to the Poplar and marvel at the lines written by Mao Dun in praise of these trees. In fact, Chinese white poplars hold many lesser-known fascinating features.

The most striking feature of the poplar is the countless “eyes” left by broken branches. These scars bear an uncanny resemblance to human eyes, with vivid and varied expressions. Every emotion that the human eye can convey can be seen on these poplar eyes. Some glare fiercely; some look terrified; some gaze tenderly; some appear on the verge of tears; some stare deep in thought; some are full of longing; others stare blankly as if lost in sorrow. These peculiar poplar eyes always fire visitors’ imagination. A popular game among tourists is to hunt for eight types of expressions: joy, anger, sorrow, delight, surprise, anxiety, contemplation and longing.

Countless poets through the ages have written verses about willow catkins. Yet willow catkins pale in comparison to poplar catkins. While the chill of early spring still lingers, poplar trees are already covered with whisker-like catkins. Soon, millions of white fluff drift everywhere, light as feathers and cotton, drifting east and west. They possess the pure whiteness of snowflakes while being far softer. Tourists wander amid this flurry of “goose-feather snow”. The fluff touches the face without bringing cold and brushes clothes without dampening them. Visitors cheerfully watch the catkins clumping into balls on the ground. Even if some fluff lands on faces and drifts into noses and mouths, it remains one of the greatest joys of the poplar forest.

Chinese white poplars are dioecious, but male and female trees are hard to tell apart. Careful observers can distinguish them by bark colour and tree shape. Experts explain that all the floating poplar fluff comes from female trees. Female blossoms linger long on the branches until they send out millions of seeds. Male blossoms only bloom for a few short days before fading completely. Deep in the forest, on a small patch of wasteland, lies a lonely tomb of a devoted young couple. Beside the grave stand one male and one female poplar tree side by side, with exceptionally vivid tree eyes. Lovers often come here to study the “eyes” and guess the gender of the trees, praying for a lasting bond.

The poplar forest sea is a haven for birds. As local people grow more environmentally conscious, highly toxic pesticides are no longer used on farmland and in woods. Birds now live and breed here without worry. Before the morning mist lifts, birds start singing loudly. They hop on branches, chase one another through the woods, rise together into the sky and wheel away like a wisp of cloud, or fly back to their nests in chorus, filling the woods with chirps. Thousands of cuckoos, magpies, red-throated robins, tits and countless other birds make their home in this paradise. Their colourful plumage, clear songs, lively movements and spectacular mass flights form another unforgettable attraction of the woodland.

Autumn lends the forest sea a unique charm. When the weather turns crisp and cold dews begin to fall, the endless green waves suddenly change colour. Golden leaves filter sunlight into warm bright rays overhead, while frosted fallen leaves crunch underfoot. Foliage of other trees glows in red, orange, brown and amber. In the orchards, hawthorns like coral beads, grapes like purple agate and apples blushing like young girls adorn the frosty woods. While cold creeps in outside the forest, warm hues fill every corner here. When autumn winds blow, wild geese fly south overhead and leaves swirl down through the trees, painting the woodland with a brand-new mood.

In deep winter, tourist numbers dwindle. Yet the woodland in winter is far from barren. Its vastness, grandeur, solemnity and tranquility cannot be matched in other seasons. Standing on high ground and looking down, you see boundless forest stretching beneath a pale sky. If you are lucky enough to catch rime ice, the whole poplar grove is wrapped in silver, turning into a wonderland of jade trees. Walking among them feels like stepping into a fairyland. After heavy snowfall, it becomes a genuine snow-covered forest. The pure white snow contrasts sharply with dark green trees, forming an ink-wash scroll painted by a master artist.

The ancient river woodland lies 5 kilometres west of the county seat. Drive west along National Highway 329 past Tangsi Forest Farm, then turn north to enter the ancient river course. Continue north along forest roads, and return to the county along the Guanxian-Beiguantao Highway.