Utrans Wines Cultural Center, a venture from Xiamen-based wine importers Utrans Wines, is the first branch in Beijing. Last year, it announced plans to build China's first 'wine museum'.
Inside the center, the atmosphere aims for Euro cafe chic. Tiled floors, light woods and a decent-sized tapas menu make for a likeable spot to rest one's feet. Towards the back lie sets of shelves packed with wines from nearly a dozen countries. All wines are sold only by the bottle - we are told this may change.
The layout encourages browsing, but the racks are arbitrarily marked. All in all, Utrans is unlikely to win over the tourist crowd (the bulk of 798's visitors), for whom a bottle of wine at lunchtime is a bit much. But it remains a peaceful retreat to while away a 'cultural' afternoon, and that should be enough to see it through a hard winter period.
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